Epidaurus

The ancient theatre at Epidaurus on mainland Greece is a stunning site and possibly every actor’s dream is to one day perform there. The theatre was built around the 4th century B.C. but only discovered by archaeologists at the end of the 19th century and is now arguably the most famous theatre in the world.



In ancient times the theatre was just part of the Sanctuary of Asclepius, the Greek god of healing, whose cult was widespread throughout Greece. In antiquity people came to Epidaurus to be healed and hidden away among the undergrowth are the remains of a shrine, baths, gymnasium and hospital ward. The theatre however has survived almost intact and is a marvel of engineering and design. The ancient Greeks recognised the therapeutic healing power of drama and so drama was part of the cure prescribed by the medical practitioners to the visitors who came there. A bit like nowadays watching telly or a D.V.D. when you’re ill in bed! With a seating capacity of fourteen thousand the open air auditorium is composed of fifty five tiers of seats.

The seats were hollowed out below so that spectators could draw their feet in to let others pass by and the acoustics are so perfect that even from the last fifty five tiers of seats it is possible to hear the slightest sound on the stage below like a pin dropping or a deep breath! The site of Epidaurus was chosen for its beautiful surroundings and the theatre is set against a backdrop of the pine-wooded slopes and plains of Mount Kynortion; the scent of pine and thyme still wafts on the air when you visit today. Ancient Greek drama was as much a religious as artistic rite for in the circular orchestra the remains of an altar can be found. During the summer months this ancient theatre comes to life again resurrecting the atmosphere and the ghosts of the past with a festival of Greek drama. Ancient Greek tragedies and comedies are presented by the National Theatre of Greece to packed audiences. It is the ultimate location to hold a “gig”, Maria Callas has performed here and the National Theatre of Great Britain has also been permitted to play in this awe-inspiring site.

You can reach Epidaurus by taking a bus from Athens across the Corinth Canal and through some spectacular scenery along the Saronic Gulf to the site, this journey takes about three hours one way. Alternatively, during the summer some excursion boats make the two hour crossing from the port of Piraeus to the old port of “Old Epidaurus” and then it’s a further 16 kms by road to the site. Nafplion or “Nauplia” as it is sometimes also called, is a charming and picturesque little town with a harbour and old fortress nearby for visitors wanting overnight accommodation. If you make an excursion by day the tranquillity, beauty and setting of Epidaurus will stun you but if you make an excursion by night during the summer festival to see a play it’s a totally different experience.

In the early 1980’s I was lucky enough to go on a night excursion to Epidaurus where we saw Euripides’ “Phoenician Women” as part of the “Epidavria” summer festival. We travelled in a coach with a crowd of other British tourists and a Greek tour guide and it was an experience that will stay with me for the rest of my life. On arriving at the site it was quite a steep climb from the car park up to the amphi-theatre but the atmosphere was electric with stars and a moon gleaming in the black sky above. All the German tourists who had come in their own separate tour coaches had brought cushions with them to sit on so they were comfy but us Brits hadn’t and so had to sit on the hard stone seats instead.

As soon as the play began a hush fell over the mountainside and there was something truly inspiring about performing classical Greek drama in its natural surroundings in the open air. I may not have understood a word that was being said (it was all in Greek) but with the perfect acoustics I certainly heard every word that was being said and it was easy to get the gist of the story. The Greek actors, costume designers, choreographers, set designers etc. managed to make ancient drama accessible to a modern audience.

I particularly liked the robed figures of the Greek Chorus with their heavily painted faces who danced and sang and whispered and chanted at various points during the performance. The make-up, wigs and costumes seemed to belong to an ancient age and were very “full on” and heavy, giving the impression of masked faces. There was even live lute playing from one of the characters which added to the ambience of ancient times. As we left I think most of us felt the play, part of “Popular Experimental Theatre” had accurately recreated the atmosphere of the theatre’s traditional past and that we had all witnessed something very special that night. There was a mass exodus of people heading to the car park at the end and it was easy to get lost and separated from the group and with so many tour coaches all looking the same it was difficult to find our original one. I even mistakenly got on the wrong one but quickly got off again when I heard everyone around me speaking German!

Whether by day or by night, under a hot sunny sky or a star-studded one, Epidaurus is a spectacular sight. Whether you want to explore the whole archaeological site or just marvel at the wonder of a whole theatre carved into the side of a mountain hill Epidaurus is a “must see” and highlight of any visit to mainland Greece. And if you’re lucky enough to see a play, the ancient idea of watching a tragedy or comedy to lift your spirits and purge your mind of destructive thoughts may well live on!

Ricki Crookes has worked as an actress in the film and television business throughout most of her life. She has appeared in numerous commercials which have been shown on television and cinemas world-wide. She has also worked as a model and been in many prestigious photo- shoots which have featured in magazines and bill-boards. In addition she has written articles for both newspapers and magazines and is an award winning poet.